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His wife told Aeroworks that "now that every
where we go in their home city; that Max is known as the guy with the
little yellow airplane" (cool ).
He is also an excellent source of
information as he as written a building diary during the
assembly of his Aerosport-103.
Max is also quite active in corresponding with other Aeroliters.
Building the Aerosport 103
NOTE FROM BLUEMAX :
It is now 11-16-99
I am preparing to send this diary to Aeroworks to post to
the web-site. My AeroSport is all done, and I am ready for my first
flight. If you are smart, you will read this entire diary before
beginning your construction. I have thoroughly enjoyed it.
If you are trying to decide whether to get the slip-on
dacron covers, or the fabric and paint, read that section carefully.
Fabric and paint will at least double your assembly time (but it's worth
it...). I think I've accomplished my goal with this diary, which is to
make the process easier for all that follow me.
I would also imagine any builder that came before me could
have done the same thing (and for my sake...why didn't you? You know who
you are...) Enjoy it as much as I have. -Max
DATE HOURS DETAILS
9-16-99
Picked up my AeroSport 103 kit from AeroWorks in
Millersburg, Ohio.
Max's wife, granddaughter, and Father-in-law. Home and
time to assemble the Aerosport-103!
9-19-99
6.0 hrs
Began construction. Take the time to make absolutely sure
that the fuselage is level, and square to the vertical tube. Check, check
it again, and then check it again. If it's not square here, you will be
making much more work for yourself later. Actually, you need to drop what
you're doing and go to Sears. Buy yourself a Craftsman magnetic
protractor. It is about as big as a CD, and a degree scale that you read
through the face. A pendulum swings inside, and is always plum.
When you put the base onto whatever you're checking, you
simply read the deviation from plum (that's up-and-down, not to be
confused with level, side-to-side). Since the base rests on the magnets,
and aluminium doesn't work with magnets anyway, you will want to pry the
magnets off and give to your wife for her refrigerator.
Now the base will be better. You may also want to order a
pneumatic rivet gun at this point, if you have an air compressor. You'll
need it shortly. I got mine through Northern Tool, for about $ 60.00. If
not, you'll have arms like Charles Atlas by the time you're done (you
young-un's are saying..."Charles who?")
9-20-99 10
Main fuselage assembly
9-21-99 4
Nose gear assembly, adj. to rudder pedals, windshield.
Ordered pneumatic riveter.
9-22-99
3.5 hrs
began setting ribs on wing - interrupted by curious
neighbors.
Get ready for it...once people find out your building an airplane, you're
going to get visitors.
9-23-99
n/a BIG SCREW UP !!! I realized that the ribs were
installed backwards. Thank God it's only one wing. I ordered 200 new
rivets from a supplier in Cleveland...will be here tomorrow. I don't need
that many, but I'm not done building, either.
In the meantime, I drilled through all the attached ribs
and removed all ribs. That's the easiest way to remove a rivet...just use
the same size drill bit that you drilled to install the rivet. Drill
right through the center of the rivet, and it pops right out. I'm in the
process of reattaching them correctly.
The wing is so symmetrical, I had no way of knowing that
the there was indeed a RIGHT and LEFT wing. AeroWorks said that it has
happened several times, with their builders.
You would think a WARNING in the plans would help??
9-24-99
n/a I'm not counting this as assembly time, since I had to
work backwards - not forwards. I did get all the ribs turned around, and
encountered no problems. I filled all the old holes with rivets. I
figured the easiest way to attach them was to put them on the opposite
side of the "x" on the line (which I did). I did get the rivet order
today, but still no air riveter. When I work tomorrow, I'll be picking up
with new work.
Blue Max NOTE
From this point on, I describe the construction in more detail. I also
tried to make suggestions for improvements.
9-25-99
2.5 hrs.
Attached rib braces and drilled fabric holes. Mounted
aileron tubes. This LEFT wing is done. Got started with the right wing,
but just barely. I have to work overtime at 12 noon.
9-26-99
7.5 hrs.
I did the entire right wing in 2:15 ! It sure helps to
have done the first one. When I'm done, it would probably take me half
the time to build another one.
After the wings, I next mounted the wings to the fuselage,
and began attaching the right side struts. The fuselage has to be
levelled on every axis again. I did this with 2 small floor jacks under
each main gear strut (still no main gear spindles). This took A LOT of
head scratching and interruptions. USA won Ryder Cup!
The right wing is ready to have the washout set. The left
wing will go allot faster. I won't be able to work on it tomorrow, as I
am beginning my last concrete job of the year.
10-3-99
8 hrs.
Today I set the washout on the right wing, attached the
left wing and got it done to this point. I then completed both wings by
attaching the jury struts.
The drawing shows the l.e. smash rivet using only one, but
two on the rear. It is best to use only one on the rear, also. This is
because the sleeve of the clevis that fits into the jury strut makes it
very tight to get two rivets in. It looks better with one, too.
HINT: If you do want to use two, turn the second
one 90 degrees. to the other, which will permit them to fit. I found the
directions on the setting of the washout very confusing.
Here is the easy way to understand the concept: The
objective is to raise the trailing edge, so the wingtip is at a lesser
angle-of-attack. This way, should you be approaching a stall, the
wingtips will still be flying. You will still have aileron control (to a
point).
Not many ultralights have washout set in the wings. On
the setting of the washout, I found it much easier to use a magnetic
protractor, instead of a 4 ft. level with a 2" block taped on. It was
very easy to keep going back and forth...checking and re-checking the
angle of attack at the root and 12" outboard of the strut.
Also, it would probably be a good idea to have both wings
attached before setting either washout. This is because you may cause the
fuselage level and plumb to change as you lift the trailing edge of the
wing. It would probably be best to have a helper SIT in the plane
(patiently) while you then properly level the fuselage, and set the
washout.
HINT: A magnetic protractor worked as good and
quicker than a level at levelling and plumbing the fuselage. You can get
one at Sears, as it is made by Craftsman. It has two magnet strips in its
base, but they don't work on aluminium, and besides, they won't let the
thing your checking to make contact...they only touch the magnet. Get a
screwdriver and pull those magnets out, throw them away.
AeroWorks claims that the angle of attack should be 5.5 to
6 degrees at the root, and 4 to 4.5 at the outside of the strut, hence 1.5
( or 2 ) degrees reduction in the angle of attack. In MY plane, the angle
of attack at the root was exactly 4 degrees on each wing, so I set the
attack angle at the strut at 2 degrees.
I need to develop a procedure for removing/installing the
wings. Removing the right wing was almost a disaster when the bungee cord
slipped on the ladder, causing the wing to twist. I think the first step
needs to be removing the bolt that attaches the strut to the lower hoop.
Gravity will hold it in place until you're ready to pull the wing away.
10-4-99
9 hrs.
Well, I thought I would be able to work on the
tail...WITHOUT the wings on...but I should have looked at a finished photo
of the plane. I would have seen that the upper boom struts attach to the
wings, and everything else attaches to them. Soooo, the first thing I had
to do was put the wings back on. I am getting the hang of it. I actually
put the left one on without the assistance of a ladder supporting the tip
end. I think it might be easier to do if you don't use support on the
wingtip.
I only made one mistake. On the " L-tangs" that attach
the front of the horizontal stabilizer to the upper tail boom tube (each
side), I instead used the upper parts of the saddle that attaches the
front horizontal stabilizer strut to the lower boom tube.
I had mistaken the upper saddle part(s) for the L-tang,
because I couldn't FIND anything left in the parts that looked like an "L"
except for the upper saddles. I sure could have used a photo. I am
finding that he further I get into assembly, the less photos showing
assembly. They must have gotten tired of taking photos. I corrected the
boo-boo, and completed the tail assembly.
Everything I assemble now will be disassembled to do the
covering, then reassembled. I attached all the control horns to the
flaps, ailerons, elevators and rudder.
I ordered a CITATION 240 HVLP spraying system from
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. I find it sooooo much easier to
concentrate when I'm absolutely all alone, with no kids, radio, noise or
interruptions. I should build it during the night!
10-5-99
3 hrs.
Attached hinges to ailerons and flaps- attached
to wings. In setting the cables for the ailerons, I found them to be
slightly too short. I fixed this by changing the location of the cable
clamp on
the steering yoke to about 3/4" closer to the steering yoke itself. The
ailerons are now adjusted to droop about 1/2" from the trailing edge,
while the adjusting turnbuckles are turned all the way in. Perfect.
10-6-90
4 hrs.
It took a long time to properly set the flaps. I also
attached the elevators and rudder. I ran out of AN3-13 bolts. I only
need a few more. I also adjusted the flaps to droop (about 1/4").
10-7-99
3.5 hrs
I'm taking allot of time scratching my head. I attached
cables to rudder and elevators. The cable clamp block next to the yoke
was not in the right place, so I had to unbolt it and move it 2" towards
the seat. It would not allow the yoke to move past 90 degrees (you
couldn't pull it back).
I found out later from Mark that the block position was
okay, but the actual clamp(s) attached to the block were turned around.
If I had drilled out the rivets and turned it around it would have
accomplished the same thing.
The entire tail is square, level, plumb, etc. It is as
perfect as it can be. The elevator has more travel up than down, but it
travels the entire limits of the cable. It is sufficient in each
direction, anyway. I think I'm ready to begin covering!
10-9-99
3 hrs.
I got my spindles UPS yesterday! They forgot to send me
the bolts to attach them, and the replacement bolts for what was short. I
attached them temporarily by sticking rivets in the holes (do not squeeze
them).
I thought about toe-ing in the wheels a little bit, but I
decided to follow their instructions...which is straight ahead. The
instructions have you mount the wheels on the spindles, but the next step
attaches the brakes. Obviously, you need to install the brakes BEFORE you
mount the wheels.
I haven't secured the brake cables to the struts yet, as I
will be attaching the streamlined strut covers. I'm not sure at this
point whether I'll attach them to the outside of the cover, or drill a
hole and run them inside for the most part. I think this would be a
cleaner installation.
They didn't say so, but you need to put grease on the
cable before you put it in the housing. I need to check out the mounting
of the main strut covers, as holes or slots will need to be cut for the
jury strut attaching points, etc. I also need to drill the attaching
holes for the strobe lights, and determine were the lines will run. After
that, I'll be taking it back apart so I can begin covering.
10-10-99
3 hrs.
I took it all apart. I would not want to do this
everyday. If it had to be broken completely down every time I flew, I
would hangar it someplace.
I am very timid about getting started with the fabric, so
I'm going to wait until tomorrow- when I'm sure I'll not have any
interruptions, as Connie is not here - and I'm watching Megan while I'm
trying to work. That won't work if something happens and I have to quit.
10-11-99
7 hrs.
I had nothing to worry about on the fabric. I covered all
but the wings. I tried experimenting with a heat gun, but the heat was
too concentrated, and too hot. It was too easy to get real hot, real
quick. I was able to melt a hole through the fabric without much
trouble. Use an iron instead.
When closing up the open ends, the manual says to "glue
the open end shut..." I found that the BEST way to do it is to apply glue
over the end where you will be laying the fabric to close. Apply at the
same rate that you did the first two glue/mek coats before you pulled on
the fabric.
With this layer of glue still wet and sticky, pull the
fabric over the glue and rub it with your finger to seal it. It works very
well, and very quick, and you don't need to clamp it. When you have the
whole side stretched, then cut off the excess material.
You need to pull the material at LEAST halfway around the
tube (or whatever). You can use a utility knife to cut off the material
against the tube, but you DO NOT want to cut against the tube for
the other side that you will do next, as you would also cut through the
first layer of fabric.
Instead, use scissors, and again make sure you are at
least halfway over the end. The fabric should overlap the first layer.
After you've cut the second side excess off, you can smooth the seam by
applying a little more glue.
You can use the brush to smooth the seam edge, or you can
use your finger (which I prefer). It gets a little messy. If it feels
like it's getting too sticky, you can put a little more glue on. I
thought the hardest part would be cutting around the clamping blocks on
the horizontal stabilizers, but they were easy. See the photo to see how
the reinforcing patch looks like around the clamping block.
10-12-99
5 hrs.
I finished putting the straight MEC, then 2 coats of 2-1,
MEC-glue mix over all the perimeter. This took quite a while. I then
heated up a nail set and melted the fabric through at all hole locations.
I took the wings inside and stripped off the struts and all the hardware.
I wiped them clean. I also drilled the holes for the streamlined
strobes. All of the ribs are still perpendicular.
Tomorrow I will start with the 2 coats of glue to the
perimeter, and go from there. I also received my EIS by UPS today!
10-13-99
7 hrs.
I got the right wing glued and covered today, and had
begun to shrink it when the power went off at 5:15 pm in a bad
thunderstorm. The power was off until around 3 am. There were 26 power
outages around the county. The wind blew the rear lower tail boom over,
that I had propped up against the building. It hit the wheelbarrow and
put a dent in the tube. Not bad- but it ticks me off.
I also found out that AeroWorks gave me 2 RIGHT wing
covers, rather than one of each. I tried to see if I could use the right
cover on the left wing, but the seams don't line up right. I'm also
running out of glue. I don't think I'll have enough to finish. I haven't
wasted a drop.
I picked up a Sharp Viewcam at H.H.Gregg for $287.00! I
really like it, and the balance of the project will be in color. Because
of all this, I think I may have to make a trip to Millersburg. I can
pickup the missing landing gear bolt, left wing cover, and glue. I can
return the first instrument. panel, wrong wing cover, and maybe give them
back the instruments that I will not be using.
10-14-99
7 hrs.
I DID drive up to AeroWorks. Picked up left wing cover,
bolts, glue...made exchanges. Don't you know that they gave me the wrong
landing gear bolt?? It's too long, and I can't make up the difference with
washers, because they will get in the way of the strut cover. I'm just
going to get a 10/32 die and thread some more threads on the long bolt,
then cut off the excess. That should work.
Well, let me tell you...there is alot of work in the
wings. I attached the cover to the left one; glued it; shrunk it; 2-coat
glued it; attached all the reinforcing patches underneath (that took
awhile); and melted the fabric at all hole locations. Keep in mind I only
got as far as beginning to shrink the fabric on the right wing yesterday,
when the power went out.
I also got the right wing up to where the left one is.
THEN, I put fabric rivets in one wing. I don't know if I agree with the
"...dip in straight glue..."idea, as this really makes a mess. I hope
the rib tapes cover the glue that has oozed out around the rivet head. I
still need to rivet the other wing, and then glue on rib tapes to both
wings. I should THEN be ready to UV paint all pieces.
10-15-99
4.5 hrs.
I riveted the other wing, put rib tapes on both, and
applied 2 coats of glue. The wings are finally ready for UV paint, but
the glue is suppose to dry for 24 hours before UV. I'll paint the UV on
the wings tomorrow. I DID paint one coat of UV on all the other
surfaces.
HINT: Do your painting outside in the sun, as it
dries much faster. It is latex, of course. I had NO MEK left, and had to
clean my brush out with ACETONE. I suppose it could be used in place of
MEK, but I didn't want to try it.
HINT: When attached the rivets that have been dipped in glue, do
about 12 at a time, then wipe the surface of the rivet briskly with a
terry cloth rag. It rolls up the excess glue, and is the easiest way to
remove it that I have found.
10-16-99
4.5 hrs.
I applied the 2nd coat of UV to the control surfaces, and
put 2 coats on both wings. I accidentally knocked over the gallon can of
UV! I lost about 1/2 gallon before I could pick it up. As it turned out,
I still had enough UV to do all but about 2/3 of the top of one wing, of
the 2nd coat. I need about 8 oz. to finish. I could not find the UV at
ANY paint shop, aviation shop, etc.
I don't know where AeroWorks gets it. A guy at Parr
Airport in Zanesville told me that I ought to be able to use latex
exterior (flat black) paint, as it should already have a UV protectant in
it. He is probably right. I've decided that this is what I'm going to
do...NOTHING.
I already have a good coat of UV on it, and in the manual
they discourage MORE than two coats, as it only adds weight. I'm sure it
will suffer no ill affects of not having a 2nd coat. I'm ready to scuff
the surface with the included ScotchBrite pad. I will then he ready to
paint yellow!
I have to fully read the instructions that apply to the
paint gun, HVLP, and paint. I also have to build a plastic-enclosed paint
booth.
10-17-99
The weather was cold and wet today- no painting. I picked
up some polyurethane enamel to practice with. I also need to go to Ohio
Auto Care on Hamilton Rd. tomorrow to pick up the gloss black paint, and
related supplies.
10-18-99
6 hrs.
Today I picked up the trim paint and assorted supplies.
They don't make Durethane anymore. It was suggested that I use PPG
Concept, instead. I got it is gloss black for the trim. It takes
hardener and reducer just like Durethane. I will also use a flex additive
in it (on the fabric). I got an epoxy primer to use on the metal. I then
came home and built my spray booth.
Actually, I just hung plastic around the perimeter. The
floor got sticky as I painted. Let me tell you one thing...I can't stress
this enough...
DO NOT PAINT WITH THIS PAINT UNLESS YOU HAVE A FORCED
AIR BREATHING APPARATUS!!!
I made the mistake of taking a breath after I took my mask
off, and before I got out of the enclosure. Whew! It was strong. I have
no doubt that anything less than a separate breathing source would be
dangerous. Thank God the Citation 240 has the forced air built in.
No about the painting...I'm not satisfied. First, the
mistakes I made:
1) Dragging the bottom of the spray can in the wet paint.
2) Spray gun dripping...fixed when I snugged it down more securely. 3)
Dragging air hose in the wet paint...now I loop it around my neck- end of
problem.
4) It is hard to see the "wet" line of the paint you're applying.
This could be remedied by repositioning all of my
floodlights so that you are looking into the glare. It becomes harder to
see as you apply successive coats. I don't know what I'll do about the
finish. I know that the paint seems a little thin, after adding the
reducer. Without the reducer it may cover better. I'll call AeroWorks at
9 am to see what they say.
I'm not terribly impressed with the HVLP sprayer, either.
Of course, I did get a full three coats out of it. If would probably have
only covered two using a conventional sprayer. I think my disappointment
with the sprayer is probably due to the paint viscosity. I DO wonder if
it would not look any worse if I had used a paintbrush...
I'll see how things go; I may decide to wet sand this
finish, and/or apply a third coat. If I could do it all over again, I
would have applied a white or yellow UV undercoat...NOT BLACK.
Also, every little imperfection underneath telegraphed
through to the top. It did seem to get better by the third coat, and
tomorrow, maybe it will be better yet. You MUST take care of every defect
when it happens, or suffer the consequences. Hairs from the glue brush,
excess glue, glue runs, wrinkled fabric.
If anything ever happens to this fabric, I'll probably
replace it with that SuperMonokote-type stuff that I saw on the Challenger
at the Fairfield Co Airshow. Oh well, tomorrow's another day.
10-19-99
I talked to PPG, and AeroWorks today. PPG said that I
should use 1/2 as much reducer, and that should take care of the problem.
They also said that I should not expect to have complete coverage with
only a tack coat, followed by a wet coat. They told me to "just paint"
with no lighter tack coat.
Todd told me that the paint is so finely atomized by the
HVLP, that may me causing a problem. They use a Taiwan gun from WalMart
for about $50, and it does a great job. Connie threw the box away the
Citation HVLP came in, so I guess there's no returning it.
Todd suggested that I paint over the black UV with a
yellow flat latex, as it's cheaper than using epoxy. I agree. I wish I'd
have never used the UV at all!!! He also said that yellow is the hardest
color to cover. I just got off the phone with Axis (maker of the Citation
240). He said that I am using the correct fluid nozzle and needle (1.0
mm).
He also said DO NOT reduce the reducer, and do everything
just as I was. He said that yellow paint over black is GOING TO TAKE MORE
COATS, and I need to accept that. I guess I agree.
I've just contacted every paint store in Newark, and no
one has an exterior, flat latex, in yellow, or anything close. I then
went to Meyers, and guess what...they not only had it, but it was YELLOW.
It's a better color than what the Durethane yellow is! I'll tell you, I
think if you could get the same color in a oil based polyurethane (house
paint) I would use it instead of the Durethane.
I put on 2 coats of the yellow - onto a small area of one
of the elevators. I let it dry completely, then poked and prodded. I am
certain that it will not crack, split, or peel off. The part that was
tested almost completely hides the black underneath. I think I will now
be able to use only 2 coats of Durethane, and completely hide the black
UV. I can't wait to get started...
10-20-99
9 hrs.
Well...it sort of covered the black. I did all black UV
surfaces with 2 coats. You can certainly still see it is dark underneath,
but maybe it will be enough to only require 2 coats of Durethane. I could
have put it on thicker (easily) but though it might be asking for trouble,
since this latex does not have a flex agent in it.
I sanded the previously painted wing, and got it ready for
the last coat of Durethane. I also used a tack rag on it, and will to all
other surfaces prior to painting. The sticky stuff on it really picks up
the dust. I am better at handling and adjusting the spray gun. The final
coat looks pretty good, and I'm sure the other surfaces will look better
yet.
Make sure you angle the lights to make it easy for you to
look into the glare - it makes it much easier to keep track of your "wet"
line. I really like the LexAire spray gun. The over spray is greatly
reduced. It's also fairly easy to clean.
10-21-99
8 hrs.
I sanded the 2nd wing and painted it. The yellow latex
over the black really made a difference. I only needed two coats of
yellow. Of course, I put the first coat on as a wet coat, instead of a
tack coat. That was the recommendation of PPG. It was a good one.
After two coats, I still had enough left to do another
side, so I put a third coat on the bottom. The bottom REALLY looks good.
I then scuff sanded all the rest of the fabric covered parts. I was
careful not to sand too heavily, as it would sand all of the yellow latex
off.
The consequence of that, however, is that the brush marks
can still be seen under the yellow durethane. There not bad (and they're
better than black streaks), but you can still see them. When the wing was
dry enough, I pulled it out and laid out all the other pieces., to paint
only one side of them. I leaned them across long sawhorses at about 45
degrees. I was afraid this would cause runs, but I only got a couple
small ones. I put on two coats, with about 30 min. between coats.
There is absolutely NO SIGN of the black streaks showing
through. Todd at AeroWorks discouraged me from only doing one side at a
time, but I don't know how I'd have done it otherwise.
Tomorrow I'll flip them over and finish with two
coats...then I'll be done. I don't think I'll do the black right now, in
the interest of getting it in the air. I'll either do it after I have
flown, or save it for a winter project. I think I'm going to have a good
bit of paint leftover. It's ironic, as I though in the beginning that I
was going to need a good bit more. I'm leaving both wings outside
tonight...I hope they survive the temperature. (and maybe frost) okay.
10-22-99
Woke up to 20 mph winds, but about 57 degrees. I hope the
wings (that were left outside) survive the wind okay. Okay, I've been
outside. Both wings are OK. The top of the second painted wing is a bit
dull, or satiny. I suppose the temperature. caused it, except it only got
down to about 45 degrees. The old Simonize reconditioning fluid would
probably do the trick.
I wouldn't call it oxidized, but it is something similar
to the 75 Cutlass that I painted a stripe on the hood. It sort of got a
"foggy" look on the paint surface. I think "blemish" is what they call
it. It looks OK, but I may decide to re-paint the top. The bottom looks
great (of course, it did get three coats, and the top only got 2).
I painted the backside of all the other fabric surfaces.
They got coats, and they look okay. I'm going to attempt to wetsand the
more obvious runs, and see what happens. It is taking a long time for the
paint to "cure". I think I am going to do the black trim ON THE FABRIC
ONLY. I'll paint the metal later on.
I'm going to keep the trim a simple pattern...well...not
too complicated. I also got the airspeed (0 - 80) today...but no pitot
tube. I'll read up on how to run the tubing.
10-24-99
4 hrs.
I worked on the instrument panel today. I was going to
cover the existing panel with Formica, but I decided instead to buy a
Formica countertop, and just cut it out. It was mo more expensive than
the smallest sheet of Formica (and I would have had to buy and apply
contact cement).
It is white. Then...I got the idea to paint it yellow, to
match the plane. This is a great color, and the instruments look
fantastic in it, but...I did it with a brush, and you can see the contour
of the brushstrokes. Not bad...but I'm not elated with it.
I will now do one of several things:
1) Leave it as it is;
2) wet sand the yellow flat, then use something to bring back the
gloss;
3) Wet sand it flat, then spray paint it with yellow (and do the nose of
the airplane at the same time;
4) sand off ALL the yellow, and leave it white;
5) Cut out a new one, and leave it white.
Option 3 appeals to me, but I haven't made my decision
yet. I wasn't going to paint the nose of the airplane again, but if I can
find nothing to bring back the gloss, (after wet sanding out the brush
marks on the nose) I will do that. I am also going to use something to
soften the I.P. mount to the tubing, so as to reduce vibration.
10-25-99
You know, I got behind on my entries, and I just can't
remember what I did today or the 26th. Sorry.
10-27-99
11 hrs.
I attached the muffler, minus the elbow hooks welded on.
I'll ask my neighbor if he could weld those on for me. I want to tell you
that properly placing the sleeve around the muffler is very important. It
would be best if you have a helper.
It is difficult because the position of the muffler
changes as you tighten the bolts around it, relative to its position to
the exhaust elbow. You can take a good look at the photos, and that might
give you a starting point.
You will find that the muffler slants slightly back
towards the engine when done correctly. This will get the elbow seams
lined up with the exhaust manifold. Realize something else...your exhaust
elbow is held in place to the manifold and the muffler by springs. The
hooks for the springs are already attached to the muffler and the
manifold, but have to be welded to the elbow.
There will be three on each side, and should be straight
across from the matching hooks (already attached). The tension applied to
each will not be the same. The elbow will droop somewhat, as you have the
elbow in place, but NOT attached to the springs.
When determining where to weld the hooks on the elbow, you
will want to create more of a "stretch" on the spring(s) on the bottom the
elbow, as this will pull the muffler/elbow back up into perfect
alignment. The ball and socket fittings on the exhaust allow for a pretty
out-of-alignment attachment, but you will want it to be aligned for
aesthetic reasons, too. The MX that I took my lessons in had a horrible
alignment. That made me feel better about my job.
I attached the elevators, rudder, and the ailerons. I
then masked and painted the black trim. Two coats of BRUSHED on PPG
Concept (black). It is extremely glossy, and levelled quickly. Maybe too
quickly, as a couple of runs developed on the rudder, as I painted it
vertically. It took a long time. I'd like to repaint my truck with this
paint.
10-28-99
7 hrs.
The black painted tips of the wings look bad. It
apparently wasn't the temperature. that affected them, because all the
other black painted fabric also got cold, but it was inside my building.
(unheated), and all of it looked fine.
I decided to repaint the wingtips. They do look better,
but remember, I brushed it. It looks great from about 50 ft. I applied a
stripe pattern, using two 1/2 in. stripes and a 2 in. stripe. It is very
nice. I found out by accident that there is a clear plastic strip that
you need to peel off, after the apply the stripe. The blue masking tape I
used was too sticky. Some of the sticky junk stuck to the yellow paint,
and has proven very difficult to get off. Whatever gets the goo off, also
takes the yellow paint off (like MEK).
I didn't even try lacquer thinner, as its characteristics
are similar. But I eventually DID try it, and it seems to work okay,
without dulling of softening the yellow paint.
Here is the solution.......USE THE 3-M FINE LINE TAPE.
I used a 1/4 in. strip to mask for the black, but then stuck the blue
masking tape to the 3-M tape, but the rest of it stuck to the yellow
paint. If you are going to mask for spraying, I guess you could use
regular masking tape, just make sure it sticks to the 3-M fine line, and
the plastic or paper that you are masking with.
Your fine line may need to be about 1/2 in. wide (instead
of 1/4 in) to better accommodate regular masking tape. Also, the fine line
tape made a PERFECT line, and came off easily. The leading and trailing
edges are getting banged up a little bit. I'm going to need to touch up
little marks, maybe after I am flying.
HINT: TAKE PRECAUTION TO KEEP ALL PAINTED PARTS
INSIDE OVERNIGHT UNTIL THE COMPLETELY CURE.
As far as I'm concern, this will take several days, during
this time of year (October). It probably wouldn't be a problem in the
summer.
10-29-99
2.5 hrs.
The wings survived outside OK. Today I remounted the
throttle grip, so as to provide much more tension when turning the
throttle. I put a screen door spring (about 3 in. long, and the exact
diameter. of the i.d. of the throttle grip) inside of the throttle grip,
between 2 finder washers that I had leftover. Just push the grip on until
it is as much tension as you want, then tighten down the screws. It works
perfect! Sometimes I just fall in to it.
I also ran the wires in the wings for the streamlined
wingtip strobes. This was difficult, but I got it done. It would not have
been any easier, had I done it earlier in the construction. process.
Mounted the carb., but have not connected any hoses, or
the throttle cable. This is one area where I am critical of the assembly
manual... there are several areas where the clearcut by-the-numbers
procedure is simply not there. It causes me to waste time, look ahead,
etc.
I wish I had all those hours back... If I didn't have the
photos that I had taken while at AeroWorks, I don't know what I'd have
done. I can't tell you how many times I've walked back inside to my
computer (at least 200) to look at a seemingly insignificant part of a
photo for clarification. Hopefully for all others after me, what I'm
doing will help.
HINT: Do not spill any lacquer thinner, acetone,
or MEK on the LEXAN windshield. It will melt it, and eventually turn it
to mush.
10-30-99
3 hrs.
Today I attached the strobe heads to the wingtips. This
was a real pain, for a couple of reasons.
1) The male pin that you are suppose to attach to the wire(s) coming out
of the wingtip was too large for the female coupler already attached to
the strobe head. It absolutely would not fit. This is an inexcusable
fault on the part of Kuntzleman Electronics, and I'm going to tell them
so.
2) Equally inexcusable, the clear lens that attaches overtop of the blue
soft material had the holes drilled in the wrong place. It would have
been impossible to push the lens far enough onto the strobe so that the
hole in the lens lined up with the threaded hole in the strobe. In fact,
it was far enough off that I had to drill a completely separate hole on
one of the lenses, and both holes on the other. I hope the rest of the
Kuntzleman electronics, that I have not yet installed, are better quality
control.
10-31-99
6 hrs.
I have to apologize to Kuntzleman. The fitting on
the strobe head is for a stripped wire, not for the wire in a connector.
I read and reread the directions, and didn't grasp that, but that's
because I had a pre-conceived idea of what they wanted to say. They still
screwed up on the drilling of the holes. I talked to Todd Raber about it,
and he said his Kuntzleman wingtip strobes were also that way, requiring
additional holes to be drilled in the lens.
Meanwhile, I attached the prop. This was a piece of cake
when I actually got to doing it. I had to buy a torque wrench that would
measure clear down to 175 in-lbs., which divided by 12, is the same as
14.58 ft-lbs. The wrench (Craftsman) I had only went down to 20 ft-lbs.
I also ran all of the fuel lines, and attached the fuel
pump. I don't know how anyone without a photo of what it's suppose to
look like would ever be able to figure it out. I had taken photos at
AeroWorks, and I've look at them over 200 times. The video and the photos
I took will help immensely.
I mounted the fuel primer bulb high enough that I could
reach it over my shoulder from the seated position, if I had to. Make
sure you attach the filter and the primer bulb in the right direction, by
using the arrows.
I'm getting a little aggravated at how long it is taking
to get so little done. It seems that the instructions should be somewhat
more structured, or by the numbers, to tell you exactly what to do, just
like they did in the beginning of frame assembly. For example, there is
nothing to indicate what line goes where, as it relates to the fuel pump.
There are many other examples.
11-3-99
5 hrs.
Today was a bad day. Snow flurries all day, cold,
blustery. I mounted the PRECISION POWER SUPPLY and the SMART STROBE DUAL
MAGNUM boxes. I basically mounted the two boxes on top of each other,
like a sandwich.
You'll have to see the photo. I called Kuntzleman to make
sure I was following the directions right. You have 5 wires coming out of
the Rotax 447:
The brown one is the ground. Ground this to the frame.
The half-black/half-yellow wire (by itself) is the
ignition kill wire. Wire this to the kill switch, already attached to the
upper tube. You'll also need to put a small piece of wire on the other
side of the kill switch, and wire it to ground.
The gray wire is the tachometer wire. From what I read,
this may or may not be what you use for your tach connection, depending on
what instrument you use. I think with the EIS it will work. I guess one
of the lighting coil wires will also work for the tach...but only one. If
you connect to the tach using one of these and it doesn't work, then
you'll know to use the other. If you use the tach that came from
AeroWorks, I believe you'll need to use the lighting coil connection, and
tape off the tach wire.
The yellow and yellow w/black stripe wires are probably
clipped together on a spade bit. These are the lighting coil wires. The
power they produce is AC. Most power-use applications on the plane
require DC, so the AC has to be converted to DC by means of a
regulator/rectifier.
Take these two yellow wires apart, and connect one of them
to the red stripe/white wire on the smart strobe, and the other to the
black stripe/white wire (on the smart strobe). If you're not using a
strobe system, then the lighting coil wires connect directly to a
rectifier/regulator. The lighting coil produces AC power, and the
rectifier/regulator changes it to DC power, and regulates the voltage,
depending on rpm.
The Kuntzleman Precision Power Supply is an elaborate
rect./regulator. It has two wires that need to also connect to the
lighting coil wires (on its input side), and it has two output wires. One
is black, and is grounded. The other is red, and is a 3 amp DC power
supply. It has allot of features, but I won't list them all here. Any and
all of the DC powered accessories will be powered from this little wire.
In my setup, that will be the CB radio, the EIS, any
landing light(s), and the DC powered strobe. I don't know how many amps
that all adds up to, but if it's more than 3, something's got to give.
Should it prove too big of a load, I may consider adding a battery. This
would provide an additional source to draw from for short periods (like
when landing with landing lights, etc.)
It was suggested by Kuntzleman that I not make the strobes
switchable, that is, just have them on anytime the engine is running.
This seems like a good idea to me. The bulbs are rated for 1200 hrs., and
I did buy them to use them, right? I will only add a switch if I install a
battery, so as not to draw current when it's not running.
I said it was a bad day? I was attempting to position my
wing behind the fuselage, so I could plug the strobe into the smart strobe
box, and check the fit. I lost control of the wing, and ended up dropping
it onto the tail boom section. It poked a hole in the middle top of the
fabric. It is more like a rip, about an inch long. I haven't decided
exactly how to fix it, but I may try SUPER MONOKOTE, then cover it with a
handmade decal, like a bumblebee, stripe, or something like that. I'm
hoping I'll not have to redo it with fabric.
11-4-99
4 hrs.
I have had some time to thoroughly read the directions for
the EIS, and other related instrument hookups. I connected the EGT probes
to the tapped fittings in the exhaust manifold. Just screw in the
fitting, put the locking nut and compression fitting onto the probe, and
insert the probe tip into the fitting. Push it in all the way until it
touches the other side of the manifold, then back it out about 1/4".
Tighten down the locking nut, making sure the probe doesn't slip at you
do.
I have read that you need to remove the rings from the
spark plugs, if you use CHT sending units. I did this. The CHT sending
unit goes over the threaded end of the spark plug, before you install it.
Don't forget to gap the plug, which is .020". On the Rotax, you can
thread the CHT leads through the cooling fins on the cylinder head, where
it will come out directly over the spark plug hole, then drop the spark
plug into the hole. If you don't, the lead will get bent up. You'll see
what I mean when you examine it.
The photos and the video both show the proper way. Also,
make sure the CHT ring around the spark plug doesn't start to turn with
the spark plug as you tighten it down. Spray the ring with WD-40 before
you position it.
With all the various wires that are now accumulating, you
need to decide how they will be run to the various terminations (ie,
instrument panel). It is probably best to leave most of the wires loose,
until you see how many wires you have, where they go, what can be grouped
together, etc. This is where a picture is worth a thousand words. Study
the photos that are enclosed, and you'll see how I did it, anyway.
11-5-99
4 hrs.
More work on the wiring today. I cut all the wires coming
out of the EIS that I will not be using. I cut them very short, so they
don't come out of the back of the plug. The EGT and CHT wires are very
long, but all others that need to reach the engine (ie, tach wire) will
have to be spliced, to make them long enough. I had to pay extra for the
pre-wired harness. I don't know why EIS didn't think that the tach,
power, etc. would not need cables as long as the EGT/CHT.
The entire frame is grounded, so I found no reason to run
the various ground wires clear back to the upper root tube. I just
grounded things wherever it was convenient. Also, on the EIS, they
indicate cylinders by #1 and #2. Which is which...you ask? It doesn't
matter, so long as you know which probes are connect to which cylinder,
and that one is designated.
For example, if you connect the probes from the EIS EGT
#1, to the cylinder closest to the prop, then that is cylinder #1. Simple
enough.
11-6-99
3.5 hrs.
I put all the wires inside of the black accordion tube,
and secured it with nylon ties alongside of the lower tube and up the
vertical tube. The hardest part of it is trying to determine how to make
the neatest installation. You do, however, have to know in the beginning
where every wire starts and terminates. And because everything vibrates,
I have taken precaution to isolate wires as best I can. In the photos,
take note of the EGT and CHT leads. All I have left to do is wire the
tail strobe, and install-connect the Skysports Fuel Probe.
11-7-99
3 hrs.
I forgot about wiring the remote switches on the EIS. I
don't think I've mentioned this before, but the EIS has three buttons on
the front of it that control its operation. When you are strapped in, you
cannot reach the EIS without releasing your seatbelt (or at least the
shoulder straps). EIS has attached three leads that you can install on a
tube, or wherever, so that you can control the EIS while strapped.
The switches are SPST, momentary on. What that means is
that when you push the button it grounds the circuit, which cycles the
display on the EIS. I got mine at Radio Shack. I am installing mine on
the left side of the hoop tube, inside of a small aluminium box (that I
also got at Radio Shack).
There was no way to attach the switches directly to the
tube, as you could not reach the nut to tighten on the back. With the box
that I bought, there is still room on the front of it to mount three more
push buttons, or a couple of switches (future devices). I also shrunk on a
couple of tubes, where the wires enter the hole in the tubing. This
should keep it from abrading.
11-8-99
3.5 hrs.
I finished up soldering the remote wires in the box. I
then installed the throttle cable. Be sure to take all the slack out.
Once you have attached the carb end to its fitting, it's much easier to
the slack out.
My neighbor welded the exhaust spring hooks onto the
exhaust elbow, and it is perfect. Smear on some Permanex (Loctite)
Hi-Temp. silicone ANTI-SEIZE compound where the elbow touches each
piece.
I had to quit early, because I drove over to St.
Clairsville to take my first flying lesson. I did very well, and I'm
happier than ever that I bought an ultralight. Something else came to
light, however.
What I am getting ready to say cannot be understated...
ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY, DO NOT EVER EVEN THINK OF TRYING TO FLY YOUR
ULTRALIGHT WITHOUT PROPER TRAINING!!!!!
I got better very quickly, but when I began trying to bank
a turn, it was not very good. The thing that I learned very quickly is
that making turns is much like changing lanes on the freeway... movements
are very small. There is also a bit of a lag, after initiating a
control.
The takeoffs and landings were the most fun, as you would
expect. Well, except for the flying about a foot off the ground in the
hayfield, dodging large bales! I'm not kidding! We then flew at treetop
level. I thought the branches were going to sting my legs. It was more
fun than I've ever had on ANY type of ride. I can't wait to fly my own.
My hearing, however, did not recover for 1 1/2 days. I
had a very noticeable ringing in my ears. It is the most loud noise,
sustained, that I've ever experienced. We had headsets, and I don't think
it was the engine that was too loud, it was the volume of the intercom
system. I found out later that my instructor had EARPLUGS, in addition to
his headset. I sure wish I had. I will NEVER to it again! He later told
me that the volume could have been adjusted. I'll use my own headset the
next lesson. If that won't work, then he'll just have to give me hand
signals, because I'm not going through that again.
11-9-99
Today I re-read all of the instructions for the Skysports
Fuel Probe. I think I know understand how to install it. I also put gear
oil in the reduction drive. Todd at AeroWorks says the best way to fill
it is to just put 12 oz. in it, rather than filling it until the oil
begins to come out the lower hole (messy).
I got some other miscellaneous information from Todd, as
follows (in no particular order):
spark plug gap is .020"; make sure to remove the spark
plug ring, if installing a CHT probe onto the plug; let your plugs be the
best indicator of how proper mixture and temp. Proper mixture and temp
will produce toasty brown tips.
Too lean (which also means too hot) will produce light
gray or white, chaulky tips. The proper CHT is 300 to 400 degrees. You
want to be watching it when the temp. gets to 425. He said for me to set
the limit on my EIS to 480 degrees. The EIS has a red warning light that
begins to flash when ANY parameter has been exceeded.
I guess that lets you fly, instead of constantly cycling
through the display pages, checking for readings. The EGT limit should be
set at 1200 to 1225. Wide open throttle while flying should produce 1000
to 1050 degrees. Midrange power will produce 1100 to 1150.
Funny, isn't it? You would think that lower rpm would
produce lower temp's. In the box that comes with your Rotax will be a
hardware pack. In it will be two short bolts, with copper rings. These
are the plugs for the EGT fittings on the exhaust, should you foolishly
decide not to install EGT probe(s).
Incidentally, there is a hole on each side of the gearbox,
that you might think would need a plug also, to keep the gear lube from
running out (it's also threaded). It apparently does not need any plug.
Gary Church (who has some photos on the AeroWorks website)
gave me the following info:
Redline rpm is 6800. Your max rpm, while tied down on the
ground (break-in) should be 6250 to 6300 rpm. You will gain approx. 300
rpm to your max. power while flying, as you're now in clean air.
Adjusting your prop. so that your rpm is too low or too
high will create problems. Your max. power rpm should be about 6500
straight and level.
Also, Todd told me, without even trying the current
setting, to change the jet needle position. There is a jet needle, and a
needle jet, so don't get confused. The top of the needle has 4 positions,
into which a retaining ring is snapped. The retaining ring controls how
far into the needle jet the jet needle is permitted to drop (or fit). The
higher onto the needle that the retaining clip is positioned, the lower
the needle is permitted to drop into the jet, effectively leaning the
mixture. My ret. clip was in the 2nd from the top, with a very small
o-ring filling the top spot. Todd had me move it to the 3rd spot from the
top (or the 2nd from the bottom). Reposition the o-ring to the spot
vacated by the ret. clip.
I'll still need to try it for awhile, to see how it
responds. There seem to be allot of things that control proper mixture:
idle speed, jet needle position, air mixture, etc. I'll go over the
proper start-up procedure, but after I have started my own. By the way,
the "54" on the side of the carb is the model, not a designation of the
size. This carb. is a 36 mm.
11-10-99
4 hrs.
Four hours today, and not much to show for it. I did get
the hole cut for the fuel probe, but I didn't get it installed. I
connected jumper cables to my truck, to power the EIS, and set all the
parameters before I start the engine. I was able to power up the EIS,
but it wasn't working right. I traced the problem to the remote
switchbox. Specifically, the "next-ack" button was acting like it was
being depressed, although it wasn't. When I disconnected the switch,
everything worked fine. I removed and re-soldered the switch, and it
worked okay. In a short while, one of the other two switches did the same
thing. I am going to replace all three switches with better quality
switches from somewhere else.
11-11-99
4 hrs.
Four lost hours again. I tested the EGT and CHT probes,
with heat. The EGT leads proved to be attached backwards. In other
words, the cylinder that I had designated as #1 was reading as #2 on the
EIS. All I had to do to correct it was to cut off the heat-shrink tubing
and disconnect the spade bits, then switch them. The CHT probes were
fine.
The instructions for the calibrating of the fuel probe are
complicated, but complete. What I want to accomplish is to have the gauge
read "empty" when there is actually a gallon of fuel left. I can also
calibrate it so that it reads in percent. ie, when the tank is full, it
will read 100%. At one actual gallon, it will read 0%. I got rushed at
the end of my allotted time, so I didn't get the probe secured in the
tank. I did put exactly one gallon of fuel in the tank. I also had to
cut the probe (it started at 24"). So it would fit in the tank w/o
hitting the bottom. I think the probe is now 14 to 14 1/4". I
accidentally dropped the internal flange into the tank (I knew it would
eventually happen). I'll try and retrieve it with a magnet.
I also picked up three new switches from AutoZone. They
are automotive type, and heavier construction. They won't have to be
soldered, as they have spade-type connectors. They are also lever-type,
rather than push-button. I may like them better. The instructions to
installing and calibrating the fuel probe are very complicated. I am not
at this point, going to go into the step-by-step. I'll come back to it
after it's all done and add something.
11-12-99
4 hrs.
Success today. I got the fuel probe attached, and I was
successful in calibrating it the way that I wanted. I was not, however,
able to do it without almost completely draining the tank. It is required
in the directions, but I thought I was more clever than that, and tried to
do it without it. It cannot be done that way, because the adjustment
"pots" on top of the fuel probe are tied in to each other. When you turn
either one, the display on the EIS changes. If anyone has any problem
calibrating theirs, just give me a call. I'll be glad to help.
It won't do for me to go through the entire procedure
here, as they will all be different. I took the day off from work today
so I could go back to St. Clairsville and take my second lesson. The
earplugs and the volume control made all the difference in the world. I
could almost here him better with a headset than if we were face to face.
We practiced cross-controlling, stalls, and of course,
takeoffs and landings. It was pretty windy, but more than that, it was
gusty. I understand now why so many ultralight pilots do not like to fly
in the wind. You are in a constant state of correction. I hadn't thought
of it, until now...but I had always wondered whether I would get airsick
or not. I've read some about it, and I guess it is influenced by your
mental state, as well as the physical factors. I'm happy to say that I
have not even remotely gotten sick to my stomach. I would think it would
have happened today, if it were going to happen. Now I've probably jinxed
myself.
11-13-99
4 hrs.
Boy, I can taste it now! I'm so close. I just have
trivial details to finish up. I safety wired the prop (a total of ten
bolts), the reduction drive (two fill plugs on side, top and bottom
plugs), the exhaust springs (6), the muffler-to-cylinder head bolts (2),
and the fuel probe (5). Don't forget to put Loctite on the muffler-to-cyl.
head bolts. This is probably pretty important, as you cannot tighten down
the bolts too tight. What I mean is that it won't let you, as the rubber
washers begin to squeeze out long before it gets tight.
Neither the fuel probe or the propeller came with safety
wire, so I ran out on the fuel probe. I'll get some before I fly. I also
found the solution to the little slit I put in the top of the right wing.
I found a roll of (believe it or not) BRIGHT YELLOW Super Monokote, from
my model airplane days. It is not quite as "yellow" as the durethane
paint, but it was pretty close. I ironed it on in three layers,
increasing diameter ovals. It worked perfect! It also shrinks up, just
like the fabric.
This is what I have left to do:
1) put graphite lube on the throttle and brake cables
2) mount tail strobe
3) reassemble
4) mount my GPS
5) break the engine in.
One of our patrol pilots from the aviation section told me
I need to check the weight and balance. He said that AeroWorks should
have something to indicate where the Center of Gravity should be. I'll
have to contact them on that. I would also like to weigh it, so see what
the gross weight actually is (with and without my weight added).
11-14-99
6 hrs.
I started my engine!! It was fantastic. I feel such a
sense of fulfillment. You know, if any of the wiring, mechanical
connections, fuel system, prop bolts, or a dozen other things had not been
right, then it might not have started. I am proud of myself. There...I'm
reaching around and patting my own back.
I didn't break it in, as it was pitch dark by the time I
was able to start it. I can't believe how long it took to put it back
together. I still need to attach the tail strobe and the gap seals. The
right side wingtip strobe didn't work. The left one worked
intermittently. I am positive it's because the replacement connector pins
I used were too large in diameter, and I couldn't shove them up into the
connectors far enough. The circuit could not be completed. I'll replace
them with the proper ones tomorrow.
I had a pleasant surprise...the EIS is backlit (green) and
it is bright! It seemed to function fine, in the short time the engine
was running. I let the CHT climb to 225 before I revved it at all. I
didn't go over 4500 rpm, and that was just for a couple of seconds. I
can't wait till tomorrow to break it in.
HINT: When starting the engine, prop the tail up onto something,
just as when you're assembling the tail. I didn't make this mistake, but
I'm sure that if you leave the tail on the ground, it will come up hard on
it's nose gear when you apply throttle.
Incidentally, I rotated the brake drums 90 degrees. forward. This put the
brake cables more on top, rather than coming up from underneath. Had I
left the cables underneath, they could snag tall grass, etc. Now if you
have already attached your brake cables the way I had originally done it,
then you didn't read through this entire diary before you started
construction! I have to make corrections as I go, you should be doing
everything right the first time, at my expense!!
Remember when I described putting the ribs on backwards?
I had another builder email me, and he indicated that he was getting ready
to do his wings. Before I could warn him about the rib problem, he had
already begun attaching them backwards. I believe he only did 4 or 5 that
way, then he saw the holes for the hinges on the leading edge, and
realized he had them backwards.
I took the opportunity, since I had the brake assemblies
loose, to correct a slight binding in each brake drum. This was caused
because the large washer (paint black) that has been welded on the spindle
was not exactly perpendicular. This washer is the part that you drill
through, in order to attach the brake assemblies. I took a quarter size
washer, cut it in half, and shimmed between the two in order to make it
perpendicular.
The wheel and brake drum can then be attached, and the
wheel spins freely without rubbing on the shoes. You can tell if you have
the same problem by seeing if the spacing between the drum (on the wheel)
and the brake shoe plate is even. If not, then you'll need to shim it,
too.
You know, I haven't added up all the hours, but all I know
is I have really enjoyed the building process. I once heard a house
builder say, by the time he finishes a house...he hates it. I understand
where he's coming from. I thought I would run into that here, but I
couldn't have been farther from the truth. I will have an empty feeling
when all the construction process is done. I guess that will give me
reason to add things, or tweak.
I do still have to paint and install the streamlined strut
covers, CB radio, etc. That also gives me hope for the future, as I one
day will be building a homebuilt airplane, such as a Velocity or a Lancair.
Can't wait till tomorrow...
11-15-99
3.5 hrs.
Well, it's tomorrow! Lots of fun today. I spent a couple
of hours rounding up miscellaneous parts: Galvanized wire (safety wire,
20 ga.); a keyed switch to use in the ignition circuit; graphite for the
throttle cable; tie down anchors; and while attempting to get new
connector pins for the tip strobes- I actually found identical connectors-
pins and all!! The package was at an old electronics store, and looked
like it had been hanging there for 20 years. It had yellowed, and the
price was written in pencil. No bar codes here! I connected them all, and
attached the tail strobe also. No need to run the ground wire clear up to
the rear mast, just put it on an "eye" connector and attach it to the bolt
that holds the strobe on.
Remember, the whole airframe is grounded. Okay, now for
the results on the engine break-in. Everything went fine, although it
takes 1 hour, 4 3/4 minutes. During this time, I got cold- as the prop
was pulling air. I guess that's better than being behind it.
I followed AeroWorks instructions, which is as follows:
1) Fuel on
2) Choke on
3) Squeeze primer bulb
4)Ignition on (or kill switch off, whichever terminology you prefer) 5)
yell "CLEAR PROP"!!
6) pull the starter rope. A couple of pulls, and it will fire.
Unlike most other engines, it will run, albeit a little
rough, with the full choke on. Let this run for about 30 sec. to 1
minute, then kill the engine. Walk around the plane and take the choke
off.
Come back around, ignition on, "clear prop", and pull
starter rope. If yours is like mine, you'll have to keep it at about 2500
rpm to keep it from dying. It is a brand new engine, and it will run
better as it breaks in. By the time I was done with my break in, mine
idled at 2230 rpm, and was very smooth. There was no hint of quitting.
Below is the ROTAX 447 break-in procedure. I recommend
making a copy of this, as I did, and keep it on a clipboard where you are
sitting (and you will be sitting). I took my Rolex off, and put on my
Casio w/stopwatch. That way, all you have to do is keep track of the
total time, and where you're suppose to be. I put a checkmark alongside
each duration as I finished it. I also noted the average EGT and CHT as
I progressed. I didn't think of doing this until I was well into it,
however. The numbers are in italics-bold.
| RPM |
DURATION (min.) |
RUNNING TOTAL (min.) |
EGT |
CHT |
| 2000 (idle) |
2 min. |
2 min. |
|
|
| 3500 |
5 |
7 |
|
|
| 5000 |
1 |
8 |
|
|
| 2000 |
1 |
9 |
|
|
| 4000 |
5 |
14 |
|
|
| 5500 |
1 |
15 |
|
|
| 2000 |
1 |
16 |
|
|
| 4500 |
5 |
21 |
|
|
| Max (6250) |
10sec |
21:10 |
|
|
| 2000 |
1 |
22:10 |
|
|
| 5000 |
5 |
2710 |
1100 |
345 |
| Max (6280) |
15 sec |
27:25 |
|
|
| 2000(2250) |
1 |
28:25 |
1020 |
301 |
| 5000 |
5 |
33:25 |
1092 |
337 |
| Max (6310) |
20 sec. |
33:45 |
996 |
378 |
| 2000 (2210) |
1 |
34:45 |
1027 |
318 |
| 5000 |
5 |
39:45 |
1009 |
331 |
| Max (6330) |
30 sec |
40:15 |
1000 |
376 |
| 2000 (2220) |
1 |
41:15 |
1027 |
310 |
| 5500 |
5 |
46:15 |
1070 |
360 |
| 4000 |
5 |
51:15 |
1170 |
320 |
| Max (6370) |
1 |
52:15 |
1050 |
360 |
| 2000(22700 |
1 |
53:15 |
970 |
296 |
| Max (6340) |
2 |
55:15 |
1000 |
379 |
| 2000 (2270) |
1 |
56:15 |
980 |
320 |
| 5500 |
5 |
61:15 |
1100 |
370 |
| Max (6280) |
3 |
64:15 |
1050 |
430 |
| 2000 (2230) |
30 sec |
64:45 |
975 |
280 |
I also listed the rpm at max throttle and idle. I have
not touched the idle or air adjustment. I only moved the jet needle to
the 3rd position, as a stated earlier. I was told that there is a
midrange rpm where the engine seems to get hot, and that did happen.
As I recall, it was at 4500, which was from 16 min. to 21
min. (check the chart). Slower or faster, it was okay, but 4500 caused
the EGT to read about 1235 to 1240. I'm sure it won't be a problem in the
air. My alarm on the EIS is set at 1225 degrees. I'm going to reset the
alarm limit to 1200, as that is the published limit from Rotax. I may
lower it from there, depending on what I find out from those that know.
The published CHT limit from Rotax is 480 degrees. The highest CHT I read
was 441, and that was at the very end of the last full power segment which
lasted 3 minutes. I told you that AeroWorks told me to set the EIS
warning to 480? Well, the whole purpose of the alarm is to give you
warning before it's a serious problem. I'm going to reduce that parameter
also, probably to around 420 or so. Hell, it only reaches about 1000
degrees. at max throttle.
As you can see, I'm getting over 6300 rpm average at full
power. That will probably translate into over 6500 in the air. We will
see... The idle speed is very constant, at 2230 +/- average.
I'm going to have to create more spring tension on the
throttle handle, though. It wanted to return to idle when I let go of
it. Remember the screen door spring in the handle? All I need to do is
push it on a little tighter.
Okay, I couldn't resist...I had to get in and taxi across
my back yard. I could only go about 60 feet (with the trees and all) but
it was neat. I found I was also able to start it from my strapped in
position. Now to wait for a warmer day...
Time to Reflect...
I am now ready to fly. I have a couple of little details
to complete, and I will continue to add to this diary as I prepare for and
complete the first flight.
The whole purpose of this was to help you build your
AeroLite - AeroSport, by clarifying the directions, having an abundance
of photos to use as reference, and little hints that will speed up your
assembly. The most important function of this diary is to keep you from
making MISTAKES, like I did. Remember the wing ribs?
Some of the text will not apply to your plane (ie, if you
don't install an EIS). I spent alot of time on the strobes, EIS, and fuel
probe. Those that opt for these accessories will appreciate it...all
others...just skip that part!
From time to time, I have been critical of AeroWorks. You
will agree, however, that I never questioned the quality or integrity of a
component or assembly. I found not a single remarkable flaw in the kit,
as supplied. Thank God that what they may lack in assembly manual
expertise, they make up in their skill where it counts.
I have no experience with other ultralight manufacturers,
but I have seen some of their kits. Some of the devices cause me
concern. Remember, I had originally planned to get a two-place, probably
a Challenger. I was so impressed by the AeroLite I changed my mind,
knowing that I was giving up a seat.
You will also get excellent phone support from AeroWorks.
You may get a recording when you call, but they will call you back the
same day. You can also call me at (740) 366-2176, or email me at
bluemax229@netscape.net .
One more thing...I'm not an English major. I write for substance, not
sentence structure. My goal is to articulate building procedures, and
little more. Don't email me, saying that I ended the sentence of page 13
with a preposition. I do spell pretty well, though, and I seldom need the
spell checker. If you find a mistake, it is from the typing. I did go
back and edit certain areas, as I learned more information about the
topic, etc. Some of the writing may seem not to "flow" as well, as a
result.
It's been two months to the day that I picked up my kit
from AeroWorks. I do wonder how much less time it would have taken if I
had done these things differently:
1) No written diary, photos, or video
2) Dacron slip-on covers, rather than the time-consuming fabric and
paint
3) no EIS (including fuel probe)
4) eliminate wingtip and tail strobes
5) eliminate the black UV underpaint (only applies to fabric)
6) eliminate the head scratching...hours and hours of staring at the
instructions.
I just counted up the hours...207 grand total. You're now
thinking...that's alot more than the "60 to 80" advertised, but remember
all the extras listed above.
I'm absolutely certain that I could have built a Dacron
version in 60 hours, without all the accessories. With what I have
learned, I'm also certain that I could do another one in about 40 hours.
Enjoy your construction, and safe flying!! -Max P. Rentz
(aka- "BlueMax")
Ultralight News Editor's note: The
following note from the factory was received when I asked for permission
to use the story on site.
One thing to keep in mind is while Max did a great job in putting his
diary together. He had never built or flown any aircraft before this . He
also did many modifications to his plane drastically extending the build
time along the complexity of the original design.
However he does say it would be twice as easy this time around and feels
he would follow more of our ( factory ) recommendations during assembly.
We have also really updated our construction manual ( which was pretty
good compared to most ) with a newer and even better one.
Max is one of my favorite owners and is very active in communicating with
fellow Aeroliters. We at AERO-WORKS really enjoy him very much. You may
want to contact him and I know Max may want to do an update to add to this
building diary as his experiences of flying an what he as learned from
this. Contact Max @ Max P.Rentz
E-mail Address(es):
bluemax@voyager.net
Thanks Todd |
